Tag archives for london eating

Cafes

Caravan Kings Cross: Accomplished, affordable modern cuisine

Caravan in Kings Cross occupies a large warehouse Industrial space with stripped back decor, exposed brickwork and ducts and lively atmosphere. It’s not the most visually appealing of spaces and lacks intimacy  but the tapas and large plates range from the above average to really rather accomplished. Food is well turned out on the whole ...
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Italian

Zucca: Rustic but competent Italian cuisine

Sam Harris’s Zucca is lauded by London’s trend setters and foodies as one of the city’s best Italian restaurants and certainly produces some great dishes with plenty of flavour and a focus on ingredient quality. The atmosphere is a bit sterile and the fairly boxy bijoux space is rather too minimalist and grey, but excellent ...
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British

Society Hilton: Comforting British Classics

Why anyone would go to a restaurant in a four-star venue unless actually imprisoned in the venue itself at usual eating hours is absolutely beyond me, but there are a few establishments where the cuisine is passable and even enjoyable. Society Restaurant in the London Olympia Hilton seems to have managed to produce smile-inducing food ...
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French

Chez Bruce: Effortlessly Palatable Classical Cuisine

I am starting to get bored of foams and gharish colours adorning my plate lately. I’m slightly disturbed by the rise of fusion Asian cuisine that blends discordant flavours and Michelin level joints seem to be plying my desserts with too many components that clearly belong in a starter or main and never anywhere near ...
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French

The Greenhouse: Intelligently designed food

The beautifully calm zen garden area sets the theme for lunch at the decidedly serene Greenhouse Restaurant located in Hays Mews. It’s elegant, understated and minimalist, much like the food. Another critic decried an antiseptic ambience, but this was not present on my visit, on the contrary it was a rather liveable space for a ...
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Italian

Novikov Restaurant: Fantastic Italian Cuisine

Slideshows require the Flash Player and a browser with Javascript support. I wasn’t expecting to be wowed by Novikov restaurant because the Guardian’s Jay Rayner was profoundly unimpressed with this Berkeley Street restaurant, owned by Arkady Novikov who owns more than 50 restaurants in Moscow. I love good Italian food and it needs to have a distinctly Michelin ...
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Cafes

Gail’s Kitchen: Fabulous Michelin Level Cuisine

Fed exceptionally well with simple food that lacks pretension but tastes fantastic, I might just be in love with Gail’s Kitchen. In fact, it might be the best place to dine in London bar none on the starter and main front. Everything seems to border on the exquisite. I wonder why none of the Michelin’s ...
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Bars and pubs

The Portman: Better than your average gastropub

I’m a professed gastropub loather on most accounts. They linger haplessly in between a pub, restaurant concept, offering fine dining menus that rarely meet the criteria of proficient culinary art and cuisine at any level. It’s a recipe for disappointment to be offered soused mackerel with horseradish cream or chocolate cremoso only to find that ...
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Asian

Babylon Roof Gardens: Some marked flaws at Babylon

Occupying the seventh floor of Kensington Roof Gardens above The Private Members Club and overlooking London’s Kensington High Street, Babylon at the Roof Gardens is an elegant venue with a nature theme typified by vivid green and leaf motifs. Spectacular views make it an oasis from the city bustle, with attractive themed gardens, natural wildlife ...
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British

La Trompette: Charming and classic Michelin cuisine

Established in 2001 Chiswick based La Trompette is an offshoot of Michelin restaurant The Square and part of the Nigel Platts-Martin and Bruce Poole restaurant group, also encompassing Chez Bruce and The Glasshouse. La Trompette offers more simplistic cuisine to The Square, still with a good degree of refinement, such that it earned a Michelin ...
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British

Caxton Grill: Masterchef runner up offers quality British cuisine

Located within the marble clad and stylishly decorated four-star St Ermin’s Hotel in St. James Park, Caxton Grill features baroque prints, soothing caramel tones and polished wooden floorboards with fine quality, largely uncomplicated British food and friendly service. Head Chef Adam Handling recently featured on BBC’s Masterchef: The Professionals where he wowed both Michele Roux ...
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French

Club Gascon: A mixed barrel and shocking dessert

A souped up pond on a plate was not what I expected for dessert in a Michelin establishment, but is sadly what I got at the highly respected French restaurant Club Gascon, located close to Smithfield Market and Barbican, and lauded for it’s French gastronomy. Top chef Pascal Aussignac has maintained the culinary Michelin accolade ...
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British

Kitchen W8: Standout Michelin dining

Sometimes I venture into a Michelin restaurant and worry that the food will be nothing more than mildly agreeable and I start to wonder if other dining establishments without a star are unnecessarily falling below the radar. Then I invariably dine at a venue without a prestigious award of some kind and I’m reminded that ...
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Restaurants

Zoilo: Gratifying and upmarket Argentinian cuisine

Zoilo is an Argentinian restaurant run by restaurateurs Diego Jacquet and Alberto Abbate and tucked away in Duke Street close to Selfridges. It’s a distinctly charming, venue with dim lighting, exposed brickwork, red leather seating and an intimate and not unhomely feel. Downstairs there is an open kitchen and small private dining room. It’s received ...
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French

Madame Gautier: Rustic French Fare

Launched in July 2013 Madame Gautier is a neighbourhood French bistro in Kensal Rise with an understated atmosphere and menu and friendly, helpful staff. The bistro opts for small producers and farmers in sourcing ingredients and produces freshly made dishes from regional French recipes handed down through the generations. It’s typically comforting, authentic, rustic French ...
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British

Charlotte’s Bistro: Impressive food in a charming setting

Situated in Chiswick, Charlotte’s Bistro is a modern bistro concept accommodating 80 guests and occupying an informal and intimate space with typical wood finishing and leather banquettes. It’s run by the owners of Charlotte’s Place set in Ealing Common but has a more relaxed and less formal interior, although this doesn’t extend to the cuisine ...
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Michelin

Tom Aikens: Trendy and elaborate

Tom Aikens is unquestionably a talented chef, boasting two Michelin stars and having previously worked at Pierre Koffman’s La Tante Claire in Chelsea, which gained a third Michelin star during his employment, along with gaining knowledge from culinary sensations Jöel Robuchon, and Gerard Boyer. Ed Dutton of pop up fine dining restaurant Pied Nus recommended ...
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French

Koffmanns at The Berkeley: Affordable Classic French Dining

Pierre Koffman is renowned as a culinary sensation having formerly graced three Michelin starred La Gavroche and established his own three Michelin starred London restaurant, La Tante Claire in Hospital Road. He has inspired a generation of global kitchen phenomenons in the chef world. Following his retirement in 2010 Koffman chosen to open a formal ...
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Chinese

Yauatcha Restaurant: Crowd pleasing Chinese cuisine

I am not Chinese cuisines greatest fan, so I consider myself quite inept to judge the cuisine on that basis. Still I couldn’t resist dipping a toe into the Michelin restaurant take on Chinese cuisine and wasn’t entirely disappointed by Yauatcha, sister restaurant to the famous Hakkasan and proud bearer of a Michelin star since ...
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