food

Opened in April 2013 The Terrace on Holland Street is a chic, formal, modern, bijoux dining space owned by Sara Adams, founder of Kensington Square Kitchen. Head chef James Kelly formerly worked at a Michelin rated gastropub in Highgate and The Tea Palace in Notting Hill.

Food is primarily British, low-key, precisely executed and well presented. The focus is on seasonal, locally sourced food. It doesn’t re-invent the wheel, but it’s not trying to, so it’s a nice little spot for flavourful food in an upmarket setting.

Luxurious leather seating and crisp white tablecloths set the scene for a very crisp dining experience that is unlikely to disappoint on a grand level.

Bread

treacle-soda-bread

Treacle soda bread was dense and earthy with a definite treacle flavour emanating from the this very rustic home-made bread. It was accompanied by a soft, salted butter and was one of the better breads I’ve consumed in London eateries. 14/20

Starter

mackerel

Fine onion tart with seared mackerel, tomatoes and cress was an extremely pleasant starter featuring an excellent light crusted tart with sweated onions, complemented by roasted tomatoes and well-cooked mackerel. The dish was full of robust flavour, but suffered slightly from over-salting. 14/20

Main

smoked-haddock

Smoked haddock with colcannon, soft poached egg, samphire and mustard sauce was another very nice dish, with slightly over-cooked haddock and a slightly over-done egg. There were a few bones in the fish, but it’s not a problem to take them out. The flavours were simple and balanced and it was a distinctly refined, British main. 14/20

Dessert

apple-tart

Fine apple tart with vanilla ice-cream and salted caramel was a refreshing change from some of the denser, richer desserts I’ve consumed lately. The pastry was wonderfully light and crisp with delicate flavours oozing courtesy of a creamy vanilla ice-cream and nicely cooked apples. I would have liked a touch more salted caramel, but I’m just being pedantic. 14/20

Overall

The Terrace on Holland Street serves up very fine British fayre indeed, much like Lamberts Restaurant in Balham. It’s far superior to many London restaurants and you can expect a refined, reasonably priced meal in an elegant, cosy setting. It’s really rather charming and the food isn’t overly elaborate.

Rating: 14/20

Cost: Starters: £7.50-£9; Mains: £16-£24; Dessert: £3-£12. Set menu: £17.50 for two courses and £20 for three.

Telephone: 02079379252 .

Address: 33C Holland Street, London, W8 4LX.

Opening Hours: Lunch served noon-2.45pm Mon-Sat. Dinner served 6.30-10pm Mon-Thur; 6.30-10.30pm Fri, Sat; 6.30-9.30pm Sun.

For more information see www.theterraceonhollandstreet.co.uk.

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